Oil serves three purposes.
1 - It prevents parts from touching each other. So their riding on a film of oil rather than on each other. Most of the wear actually occurs when you start up an engine, before the oil can coat everything. There's are devices you can get for your car that pre-lube them before you start them that will dramatically increase engine life. Now as oil gets hotter and hotter it thins causing it to be less able to prevent metal on metal. 20W50 is able to prevent metal on metal riding all day in the desert 120degF. Even when it's really hot here (104degF) I generally don't ride at high noon, I ride in the morning and evening, but guess what, 10W40 would be just fine if I were to go for a long noon ride, just not above 110degF or so. In reality I seldom drive for more than 7 miles at temperatures above 80 degrees. 30 weight is probably fine for that.
Increased motor oil weight means increased drag. So a C70 with 20W50 riding at 30mph on a 80deg day will use more fuel than a C70 with 10W40 riding next to it and the engine will be working harder. Also the one with 10W40 will have more power and go faster. The point is you really only want to use as thick of a motor oil as you need. It also might be a good idea to use a thicker one in the summer and a thinner one in the winter.
2 - It absorbs dirt (metal shavings, clutch rubbings, etc) and hopefully deposits it somewhere safe during it's circulation. When you change oil you get rid of the dirt. This is the biggest reason for frequent oil changes.
3 - It circulates the heat of the motor rather than letting it condense in one spot. You can get those valve covers with the fins, but unless you've souped up your motor it'll just run cooler which is not necessarily a good thing. The C70 motor is designed to heat up to a certain level and run there, cooling lower than that without a real reason will just make it run less than optimum.
Now if you put the fins on and run 20W50 your really screwing yourself (unless you're riding all day in the Mojave). The 20W50 is really hard to thin down and you've just made it even cooler. It's going to really hold the motor back until your in really hot conditions.
It's like Regular, and Super gasoline. The octane rating is a measurement of what temperature is required to ignite the fuel. Higher octanes are harder to ignite. So if you car was designed to run on regular and you put in super, it will actually run less optimally for a complete waste of money. Now if your car knocks, higher octane can put a band aid on the problem, but the better solution is to get a tune up and continue running regular. SuperCubs are designed for regular. High compression engines need super (less than 10% of cars on the road). It's all marketing.
(imagine a cute or dirty tagline here)
On Wed 08/06/11 10:50 PM , "A" ak6666666@yahoo.co.uk sent:
> You said "much happier on thinner oil such as
> 10W40 or 10W30.."
>
> I suppose that its because of easy oil flow and more cooling effect
> provided by the oil?
> The cylinder and head fins are certainly much smaller (less than a quarter
> length) than on any 2 stroke engine head/cylinder. I would have liked much
> longer fins.
>
> --- In Hon
> da-C70@yahoogroups.com, gandalf@... wrote:>
> > I'd recommend oil changes every 1000km or so. I
> wouldn't really recommend 20W60 (or even 20W50) unless your in a very hot
> environment and drive it long distances in 38degC weather. That being said
> if it is really hot where you drive 20W50 is one of the best and purest oil
> grades with the least additives. Still, the little Hondas are designed for
> and are much happier on thinner oil such as 10W40 or 10W30 (probably have
> to get motorcycle oil to get that grade). >
> > If you run auto oil, beware of Energy Conserving
> oil. I'm not sure what they have in the UK. It makes the clutch slip. Other
> than that Auto and Motorcycle oil is the same. > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil>
> > I run cheap oil and change it frequently. I feel
> it's better than running expensive oil and changing it less often. The dirt
> that gets in the oil doesn't care if it's cheap or expensive, it's best to
> get it out of the engine sooner than later. >
> > (imagine a cute or dirty tagline
> here)>
> > On Wed 08/06/11 12:01 AM , "A"
> ak6666666@... sent:> > Hello group.
> > >
> > > I added 20W60 plus some clear and very
> thick engine treatment. Now the> > colour is very light brown, down from
> almost clear, and thickness and> > slipperiness is still fully
> there.> > Should I change oil now at 1000
> km?> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> ------------------------------------> >
> > > C70 Passport Not Running Right?
> > > 1970-73 C70 Honda Service Manual: http://tinyurl.com/6ebwtw1970-73 C70 Troubleshooting
> Guide: > > http://tinyurl.com/6ebwtw (scroll to sec.7.1
> page> > 101.jpg)1980-83 C70 Honda Service Manual:
> http://tinyurl.com/hu42c1980-81 C70 Troubleshooting
> Guide: > > http://tinyurl.com/hu42c (scroll to sec.18-1
> page> > 170.jpg)1982-83 C70 Troubleshooting Guide:
> > > http://tinyurl.com/hu42c (scroll to sec. 20-28
> page> > 205.jpg)
> > > 1980-81 C70 Maintenance Schedule: http://tinyurl.com/z4zn61982-83 C70 Maintenance
> Schedule: http://tinyurl.com/hw35c> > More resources for C70 Passports and
> Cubs:> > http://www.shlaes.com/Vehicles/Scooter.htmhttp://www.velodrome.
> com/HondaC70/HondaC70.htmlYahoo! Groups Links> > To visit your group on the web, go
> to:> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Honda-C70/> > Your email settings:
> > > Individual Email | Traditional
> > >
> > > To change settings online go
> to:> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Honda-C70/join(Yahoo!
> ID required)> >
> > > To change settings via email:
> > > Honda-C70-digest@yahoogroups.com Honda-C70-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an
> email to:> > Honda-C70-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject
> to:> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> C70 Passport Not Running Right?
> 1970-73 C70 Honda Service Manual: http://tinyurl.com/6ebwtw1970-73 C70 Troubleshooting Guide:
> http://tinyurl.com/6ebwtw (scroll to sec.7.1 page
> 101.jpg)1980-83 C70 Honda Service Manual: http://tinyurl.com/hu42c1980-81 C70 Troubleshooting Guide:
> http://tinyurl.com/hu42c (scroll to sec.18-1 page
> 170.jpg)1982-83 C70 Troubleshooting Guide:
> http://tinyurl.com/hu42c (scroll to sec. 20-28 page
> 205.jpg)
> 1980-81 C70 Maintenance Schedule: http://tinyurl.com/z4zn61982-83 C70 Maintenance Schedule: http://tinyurl.com/hw35c
> More resources for C70 Passports and Cubs:
> http://www.shlaes.com/Vehicles/Scooter.htmhttp://www.velodrome.com/HondaC70/HondaC70.htmlYahoo! Groups Links
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Honda-C70/
> Your email settings:
> Individual Email | Traditional
>
> To change settings online go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Honda-C70/join(Yahoo! ID required)
>
> To change settings via email:
> Honda-C70-digest@yahoogroups.com Honda-C70-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Honda-C70-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
1970-73 C70 Honda Service Manual: http://tinyurl.com/6ebwtw
1970-73 C70 Troubleshooting Guide:
http://tinyurl.com/6ebwtw (scroll to sec.7.1 page 101.jpg)
1980-83 C70 Honda Service Manual: http://tinyurl.com/hu42c
1980-81 C70 Troubleshooting Guide:
http://tinyurl.com/hu42c (scroll to sec.18-1 page 170.jpg)
1982-83 C70 Troubleshooting Guide:
http://tinyurl.com/hu42c (scroll to sec. 20-28 page 205.jpg)
1980-81 C70 Maintenance Schedule: http://tinyurl.com/z4zn6
1982-83 C70 Maintenance Schedule: http://tinyurl.com/hw35c
More resources for C70 Passports and Cubs:
http://www.shlaes.com/Vehicles/Scooter.htm
http://www.velodrome.com/HondaC70/HondaC70.html
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